I just didn't realize how big it was. So I started and I kept going down and down, and the drop seemed like forever, and I thought, wow. I started making the bottom turn, and felt the lip hit me. You can see it in the video. You see me look around twice, and then I get hit by the white water on the shoulder, and it feels like a ton of bricks, and I am thinking, I've gotta make this. I've seen waves rip guy's arms off, and I am thinking this thing could tear my head off.
Garrett McNamara, World Surfing Champion, November 8, 2011